Antique Classifications
Antique jewelry can be classified into certain categories
or time periods. These are as follows:
Art-Deco Jewelry:
Jewelry from the 1920's and the 1930's
are known as Art-Deco jewelry. The term is derived from the 1925 Paris
Exposition des Arts Decoratifs Industriels Modernes, and is an outgrowth
of the Art Nouveau style (with less use of fanciful curves and spirals).
This movement was greatly influenced by the artistic movement "cubism"
in the 1920's which inspired strong geometrical patterns. Therefore,
you will see this in the jewelry that comes from this period. At this
time period, diamonds
and platinum
were used without regard to cost. These stones were cut into geometric
shapes and contrasting colours were popular. Onyx, coral,
turquoise, lapis and jade were used to create colour.
Art Retro:
Art Retro style of jewelry (1935-1949)
followed the Art Deco period. In the United States there was an economic
recovery from the depression and therefore the productions and design
of jewelry began to flourish. The influence of Hollywood culture
was also felt in jewelry and resulted in a romantic revival, including
bows, flowers, abstracts, scrolls in gold and platinum, and sunbursts.
"Rose-gold" became very popular and the Retro look became
characterized by flowing rounded lines with diamonds and rubies (synthetic).
Edwardian:
At the end of the 19th century, social
reform movements embraced by the elite class created a Arts and Crafts
movement in England (the off-shoot in France being Art- Nouveau). However,
the social elite clung to traditional designs, which were modified somewhat
because of advanced technological processes due to the industrial revolution.
This style was called Edwardian, named after Edward VII who succeeded
Queen Victoria on her death in 1901.
Arts and Crafts jewelry was
made out of silver,
enamel and semi-precious stones, whereas Edwardian style jewelry stuck
to more traditional materials - pearls, diamonds, gold and platinum.
This jewelry was skilfully worked into designs, giving it a lacy, delicate
appearance. Diamonds and pearls set in platinum and white gold were
favoured for their white-on -white colour scheme which provided a sense
of refined elegance and
luxury.
Victorian:
This style of Jewelry is named for Queen
Victorian, and covers the period of her reign - most of the 19th century.
She was very popular and set much of the fashion of the period. Victorian
jewelry is beautiful, and richly colourful. Seed pearls, cameos,
and coloured stones were popular material used. Diamonds also became
very popular during this time.
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